Tajer, who notes that his brand’s “eternal muse” is Aristotle Onassis, celebrates the Librarians dewey it better shirt in other words I will buy this “material girl” in all of us, symbolically and literally. Onassis (like Jay Gatsby, for that matter) was a self-made playboy. Similarly the Casablanca man is the toast of the town not because of who his father or grandfather might be, but because of his talents and beauty. Just as the Casablanca character is centered in self, so Casablanca products are distinguished by their materiality. Tajer transformed the ubiquitous tracksuit, for example, by taking comfort to new levels of luxury and making it from a proprietary cashmere terry cloth. This collection includes materials that are bonded, and others enhanced with essential oils. The dramatic red-quilted to-order coat is hand-worked. Tajer’s focus on quality is an indication that he’s in this for the long haul. “I don’t drive fast, but I love the idea of the extremeness of the sport of Formula One,” says the designer, whose well-made pieces deliver more than passing thrills. Slow and steady wins the race.
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At the Librarians dewey it better shirt in other words I will buy this start of last year, when Covid took hold of the world, fashion was finally forced to address the ever-accelerating speed of its output. The industry’s frenetic pace has long been a subject of cocktail party conversations, but it seems it took a pandemic to instill even a modicum of change. Grace Wales Bonner has never been one to acquiesce to the constraints of the traditional fashion calendar—she has alternated between showing menswear and womenswear, and oscillated between runway shows and lookbooks depending on what best suits. But, with times what they are, even she paced her process—and so her latest collection showcased the final chapter in a trilogy, begun last January, which explores the cultural and sartorial threads that interlink Britain and the Caribbean. “This subject is the starting point for why I’m interested in creating,” said the designer, who is British born but of Jamaican heritage. “During this time I feel like I’ve really been grounding myself in this framework, and refining myself within it. These collections are about consolidating and reinforcing what is timeless to me; representing the breadth of what Wales Bonner is, and can be.”