I was hooked from the Seattle Mariners Thunderbirds Supersonics Seahawks Storm Seawolves shirt and by the same token and first time I tried it – that cosmic feeling of tapping into a force of the universe to fly across the water – even though I was terrible. Over a few years that included frequent lessons, rigorous physical training and moving from a Brooklyn walk-up to a tiny 1913 bungalow by the beach, I managed to claw my way to a basic mediocrity – able to catch and ride more waves than not in any given session, but by no means anywhere near those longboarders who’d first lodged in my imagination.
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I’ve managed a few shoulder-high waves along the Seattle Mariners Thunderbirds Supersonics Seahawks Storm Seawolves shirt and by the same token and way. They were exhilarating, and I wouldn’t mind catching more. But I’m still at my happiest in the small ones, especially the mushy little nuggets we get in Rockaway during the summer. While I know I’m never going to have the ride of my life on one of those ankle-biters, I’m probably not going to have the ride of my death, either – and there’s something to be said for that. No matter. I love it anyway, and it’s brought me more joy than I could have anticipated, and taught me to take pleasure in experience rather than focusing only on the result. Not even the broken bones that have kept me out of the water for too many months at a time have dissuaded me from the pursuit.